How to Stop a Dog From Biting and Chewing

Biting and chewing are normal dog behaviors that serve important functions, but they must be managed through training and environmental management. Puppies chew to relieve teething pain and explore their world, while adult dogs may chew for mental stimulation or due to anxiety. This guide explains the root causes of biting and chewing, offers practical solutions for redirecting the behavior, and identifies when professional help is needed.

Why Dogs Bite and Chew

Dogs explore the world primarily through their mouths. Puppies begin teething around three weeks of age and continue until they are six to eight months old, when their adult teeth have fully erupted. During this period, chewing provides relief from the pain and pressure of emerging teeth. Without appropriate outlets, puppies will chew furniture, shoes, hands, and anything else they can access.

Adult dogs chew for different reasons. Chewing releases endorphins that create a calming, pleasurable sensation, making it a natural stress reliever. Dogs who are bored, anxious, or under-exercised are more likely to engage in destructive chewing. Separation anxiety is a common trigger—dogs left alone may chew doors, window frames, or personal items that carry their owner's scent.

Biting during play is a normal part of canine socialization. Puppies learn bite inhibition from their littermates—when they bite too hard during play, their sibling yelps and stops playing. This teaches them to control the pressure of their bite. Puppies removed from their litter too early may not have learned these social cues and need extra guidance from their human family.

Puppy Teething Solutions

Provide a variety of textures and temperatures to soothe sore gums. Freeze wet washcloths for your puppy to chew on—the cold numbs the pain while the texture massages swollen gums. Rubber toys designed for teething, such as Kong-style toys, can be stuffed with peanut butter or yogurt and frozen for extended relief. Rotate toys regularly to maintain your puppy's interest.

Offer chew toys of different densities and shapes. Hard nylon bones, soft plush toys, rope toys, and rubber rings all provide different sensations. Avoid very hard items like antlers or bones that can crack developing puppy teeth. Supervise all chew sessions to prevent your puppy from swallowing large pieces that could cause intestinal blockages.

Keep valuable items out of reach during the teething phase. Shoes, remote controls, phone chargers, and children's toys should be stored in closed drawers or elevated surfaces. Bitter apple spray applied to off-limits items creates a taste deterrent that discourages chewing. Consistency is essential—every time your puppy chews an inappropriate item, redirect them to an acceptable toy and praise them for choosing it.

Redirecting Chewing Behavior

Redirection is the most effective technique for managing chewing in both puppies and adult dogs. When you catch your dog chewing something inappropriate, calmly remove the item and immediately offer an acceptable alternative. Do not chase your dog or make the removal a game, as this reinforces the behavior. Simply trade the forbidden item for a chew toy and praise your dog enthusiastically for taking it.

Make the appropriate toys more appealing than the forbidden items. Stuff a Kong with treats, smear peanut butter on a chew stick, or play tug with a rope toy. The goal is to make the designated chew items the most interesting option available. Over time, your dog will learn which items are meant for chewing and seek them out voluntarily.

Prevent access to off-limits items when you cannot supervise. Use baby gates to block rooms, close doors, and store tempting items in closed containers. Management is not a substitute for training, but it prevents your dog from practicing unwanted behavior while you work on redirection. A dog who never gets the chance to chew the couch cannot develop a habit of chewing the couch.

Bite Inhibition Training

Bite inhibition is the ability to control the force of the mouth. Teaching this skill to puppies prevents painful bites during play and handling. When your puppy bites too hard during play, let out a sharp "ouch" or yelp, immediately stop the game, and turn away for ten to twenty seconds. This teaches the puppy that biting ends the fun.

Practice this technique consistently with all family members. If your puppy mouths your hand during petting, go limp and let your hand drop. Wait for the puppy to release, then resume petting. If they mouth again, repeat the process. Over time, your puppy learns that gentle mouth pressure is acceptable but hard biting causes the interaction to stop.

For adult dogs who were not taught bite inhibition as puppies, the same principles apply but require more patience. Never use physical punishment to stop biting, as this escalates fear and aggression. Instead, teach the dog alternative behaviors like targeting (touching their nose to your hand on cue) or sitting for attention rather than mouthing. Consistent reinforcement of these alternatives gradually replaces the unwanted behavior.

Appropriate Toys

Not all dog toys are created equal. Choose toys that are appropriately sized for your dog—too small and they pose a choking hazard, too large and your dog cannot manipulate them. The toy should be large enough that your dog must hold it in both paws to chew it. Avoid toys with small parts like button eyes, ribbons, or squeakers that can be removed and swallowed.

Durable rubber toys like Kongs, West Paw Zogoflex, and Nylabone products withstand heavy chewing and can be stuffed with food for enrichment. Rope toys are excellent for tug-of-war and gentle chewing. Avoid giving your dog cooked bones, antlers, or hard chews that can splinter or crack teeth. Raw bones under veterinary supervision are a safer natural option for aggressive chewers.

Rotate your dog's toys regularly to prevent boredom. Keep three to four toys available at a time and swap them every few days. This keeps the collection feeling fresh and novel. Discard damaged toys that have tears, loose parts, or exposed stuffing. Regular inspection prevents your dog from ingesting materials that could cause intestinal blockages.

When Biting Is a Problem

Normal play biting differs from aggressive or fear-based biting. Play biting is accompanied by relaxed body language—loose muscles, wagging tail, play bows, and bouncy movement. The dog takes turns, inhibits bite pressure, and responds to your reactions. If your dog's body is stiff, their tail is held high and rigid, ears are pinned back, or they are growling with raised hackles, the biting is not playful.

Resource guarding—snapping or biting when food, toys, or resting places are approached—is a common behavior problem that requires careful management. Never punish resource guarding, as it increases the perceived threat and worsens the behavior. Instead, practice "trading up" by offering higher-value items when approaching your dog's resources, building a positive association with your presence.

Fear-based biting occurs when a dog feels trapped, threatened, or cornered. Common triggers include veterinary handling, grooming, approaching unfamiliar people, or being disturbed while sleeping. If your dog bites in these situations, remove the triggering stimulus and consult a certified professional dog trainer or veterinary behaviorist. Fear aggression is a serious condition that requires professional intervention.

Training Techniques

The "leave it" command is essential for stopping chewing on forbidden items. Teach it by placing a treat in your closed fist. When your puppy stops trying to get it and looks at you, mark the behavior and reward with a different treat. Practice with increasingly tempting items until your dog reliably turns away on cue. Use this command to prevent chewing before it starts.

The "drop it" command teaches your dog to release items already in their mouth. Start with low-value items and trade for higher-value treats. Say "drop it," wait for the release, then reward immediately. Never pry an item from your dog's mouth, as this teaches them to guard resources more tightly. Practice with toys, sticks, and gradually more tempting items.

Impulse control exercises build overall self-regulation. "Wait" at doorways, "leave it" with food on the floor, and "stay" while you walk away all teach your dog to control their impulses. These skills transfer directly to chewing—a dog with good impulse control is more likely to pause and consider their options before grabbing something off-limits.

Seeking Professional Help

If your dog's biting is causing injury, escalating in frequency or intensity, or occurs in response to predictable triggers, seek professional help immediately. A certified professional dog trainer (CPDT-KA) or veterinary behaviorist can assess your dog's behavior, identify the underlying cause, and develop a customized modification plan.

Severe destructive chewing that occurs exclusively during separation may indicate separation anxiety, which requires a structured behavior modification program. Your veterinarian may recommend anti-anxiety medication in combination with behavior training for moderate to severe cases. Early intervention leads to better outcomes—do not wait until the behavior becomes deeply ingrained.

For puppies with extreme mouthing or biting that does not respond to standard redirection techniques, consult your veterinarian to rule out medical causes such as pain, illness, or neurological issues. Some puppies with compulsive chewing behaviors benefit from a professional assessment. The sooner you address the problem, the easier it is to modify.